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John Lobb is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a shoemaking capital in the 1600s. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the traditional production process developed in the 1800s.
Modern machines are present but secondary. For example, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With traditional knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach gives the sense of one-of-a-kind production. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in typical factories. Every shoe is built with the Goodyear method, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only 60% of each hide is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The line combines timeless classics with subtle refinements. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen model gained elongated straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez classic, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth model and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb stands as one of the pillars in English shoemaking.
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